torsdag den 16. oktober 2014

En kok får sprog (the badness of well-done)

Jeg faldt over den artikel i New Yorker, "Don't Eat Before Reading This", hvor Anthony Bourdain viste verden og sig selv, at han var lige så god til at skrive (om mad) som til at kokkerere, dette er det Harald Voetmannske højdepunkt (og  jeg gik straks videre til at købe hans Kitchen Confidential, som artiklen knopskød til, som e-bog):

People who order their meat well-done perform a valuable service for those of us in the business who are cost-conscious: they pay for the privilege of eating our garbage. In many kitchens, there’s a time-honored practice called “save for well-done.” When one of the cooks finds a particularly unlovely piece of steak—tough, riddled with nerve and connective tissue, off the hip end of the loin, and maybe a little stinky from age—he’ll dangle it in the air and say, “Hey, Chef, whaddya want me to do with this?” Now, the chef has three options. He can tell the cook to throw the offending item into the trash, but that means a total loss, and in the restaurant business every item of cut, fabricated, or prepared food should earn at least three times the amount it originally cost if the chef is to make his correct food-cost percentage. Or he can decide to serve that steak to “the family”—that is, the floor staff—though that, economically, is the same as throwing it out. But no. What he’s going to do is repeat the mantra of cost-conscious chefs everywhere: “Save for well-done.” The way he figures it, the philistine who orders his food well-done is not likely to notice the difference between food and flotsam.

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